My new retro camel coat is the first camel-colored article of clothing I’ve ever owned. Yes, you heard it right. I’ve never gravitated to brown colors — always black or gray. So this new make in such a classic and timeless color is a first for me!
Reissued Burda Pattern from 1955
When I saw the November 2024 issue of Burda Style magazine, I was immediately drawn to style #129, which was a reissue of a coat pattern from 1955. The dramatic collar, which looks like a combination of a shawl collar and a traditional notch collar, as well as the extended pocket flaps, were such cool details that I was sold on the design.
The one hitch? I am petite, so dramatic oversized collars often swallow me up and end up looking overwhelming. In the end, I figured that a bit of drama in my life would be a great way to ring in 2025, so I decided to give it a try and see how it turns out. I’m happy I did!
Pattern Alterations
For this retro camel coat, I made a toile or muslin so I could check the fit and the proportions of the coat pattern. The coat has a straight silhouette with extended shoulders and wide sleeves — definitely more of an oversized fit rather than a tailored fit.
The collar is large and statement-making but I think that is the point of this design, so I decided to leave it as-is instead of trying to shrink it down to fit my petite frame. The only pattern alterations I needed to make were the length and shoulder width.
The original sleeves are 3/4 length but I opted to make them full length. I drafted a wide sleeve facing so the sleeves could be cuffed up into a 3/4 length, which I think adds versatility.
Fabric and Notions
I found a beautiful 100% wool melton coating (deadstock from Italy) from Metro Textiles NYC. It is substantial and heavy with a soft hand and beautiful light camel color. Melton wool does not fray (and is quite heavy) so I decided to make the coat unlined. Scrap silk charmeuse cut into bias strips were used to finish the inside edges with Hong Kong binding. The perfect coat buttons in my button stash. I have no idea where or when I got them but they are perfect!
A medium-weight fusible interfacing and two types of thread (one for regular stitching and a heavier weight for topstitching) were used. I also used a fusible tape to stabilize the neckline, shoulders, etc.
Retro Camel Coat Details
For the front closures, I opted to make bound buttonholes, which is a technique I like to use for outerwear. These buttonholes are neat, polished, and strong enough to withstand a lot of wear.
I also used a lot of topstitching for this coat. For a melton wool fabric, topstitching with a heavier thread serves a couple of purposes: first, it really gives a beautifully finished look and second, it helps the thick wool fabric lie smooth and flat.
The shape of the collar is very interesting, as it combines a shawl collar with a notched collar. The front combines the lapel and collar into one piece while the back is shaped like a shawl. So interesting and effective!
As an unlined coat, all of the inside seams are visible. However, because melton wool fabric does not fray, it isn’t absolutely necessary to finish the raw edges. I decided to add a decorative bias binding to the visible edges on the inside — purely decorative rather than functional.
Retro Camel Coat Final Thoughts
Overall, I am really thrilled with this coat. The melton wool fabric was a great choice, as it allowed the design details, topstitching, and bound buttonholes to stand out and shine. While I typically prefer to add a lining to outerwear, I am glad I chose to keep this unlined, as it is quite heavy and warm enough for California days.
While it probably isn’t the most flattering style for petites, I think it works — especially when worn with a bit of confidence and attitude!
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