A well-fitting jacket is probably one of the most difficult garments to find for women who are petite (shorter than 5 foot 4 inches in height).
Most off-the-rack jackets that are not specifically sized for petite frames have too-long sleeves and shoulders that sag down, as well as less obvious signs of poor fit, such as overwhelming details (too-large collars and lapels and pockets), buttons that don’t hit the waist (when they are meant to be at the waist), and odd proportions (jacket hem cuts the body at an unflattering place).
The finished Pleat Jacket
I’ve made many custom jackets that start from measurements and take into account an individual’s unique proportions, but haven’t had a lot of success using commercial patterns without having to do a lot of alterations.
My most recent project was an exception. I started with a style I’ve had my eye on from the BurdaStyle August 2022 issue. It features narrow and rounded lapels and collar; a two-piece sleeve; side panels, darts, and a center back seam for fitting; and a cool front opening with pleats that wrap slightly over center front for an off-center look. And double-welt pockets make it especially polished!
Image from here
Image from here
What Makes the Pleat Jacket Great for Petites
While the style of this jacket is more traditional, the fit is what makes it perfect for all occasions. Here are some ways in which the Pleat Jacket’s details make it great for petites:
- The overall length hits about high hip, so it doesn’t require significant length alterations.
- The asymmetrical front opening creates a slight V-shape at center front, which elongates the torso and adds interest to the waist.
- The collar and lapels are narrow, so they don’t overwhelm a petite frame.
- There are multiple fitting lines (center back, side panel seams, two-piece sleeves) and darts that make it easier to achieve a good fit.
After making a toile, I still had to make a few pattern alterations, but they were minimal:
- Decreased the shoulder width
- Decreased the length between the neck and the bust
- Decreased the sleeve length
Here is a quick toile of the jacket to check for fit.
A Casual Version in Cotton Jacquard
I bought a beautiful cotton/spandex jacquard from EOS Fabrics a while back that I thought would be perfect for this jacket. The base color is a pale pink with a swirl of white paisley shapes and colorful botanicals. It is lightweight but has structure and some stretch.
At first I wanted to keep it unlined so it would be lightweight for summer, but then decided that a thin lining would make it more finished, wearable, and durable.
The jacket in progress
I used some typical tailoring techniques such as taping the lapel roll lines and shoulder lines, stabilizing the upper back with interfacing, and interfacing the hems for a soft fold. However, I opted to remove the shoulder pads to keep the look soft. I may add removable shoulder pads later, just to have the option of more structure at the shoulders, but we’ll see.
For the closure, I used snaps and a button instead of making a buttonhole. I covered the snaps for a cleaner look. I had some trouble with the pleats at center front because I interfaced the entire front pieces. The interfacing + fabric combination yielded a fabric with quite a bit of body, so the pleats kept poufing rather than lying flat, even with pretty aggressive ironing. I ended up stitching them down for about 2 inches from the edges to tame them. I think it worked out well.
This image shows the covered snaps that are hand sewn to the jacket as well as the pleat detail at the center front. The double-welt pocket is also visible, but just barely — the jacquard print hides it.
The one unfortunate detail was the double-welt pocket. It is a beautiful pocket that has a clean and tailored look. However, this jacquard print ended up hiding the pockets so they are barely visible!
For the button closure, I chose a gold floral design with a cluster of crystals in the center. The design matches the fabric’s floral motif very well, but gets a bit lost. Wondering if a solid-colored button in a dark color would look better?
Button from here
Final Thoughts on the Pleat Jacket
I love this jacket design. It is highly customizable to ensure a perfect fit and features details that suit petite figures. It can be made in a cotton jacquard for a more casual option or in a classic wool for a tailored look. I love the pleat detail and the one-button closure.
This one is a keeper!
Check out my other coat and jacket projects!
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