The moto jacket — or motorcycle jacket or biker jacket — is one of my fave styles. I love the details, such as the notch collar, exposed metal hardware, bold stitching, shoulder epaulets, and prominent zipper closure. It has a flattering silhouette that just skims the body. When made in traditional black leather, it definitely has an in-your-face vibe to it!
Schott NYC classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket. Image from here.
Zippers and the Moto Jacket
A moto jacket without zippers? Unimaginable! But before 1928, motorcycle jackets were actually made with buttons.
The earliest version of the zipper appeared in 1851 when a patent for the “Automatic Continuous Clothing Closure” was issued to Elias Howe Jr. Unfortunately, Howe didn’t pursue work on this patent, instead focusing on his other invention, the sewing machine. In 1893, the “Clasp Locker”, a series of hooks and eyes for boots, was introduced, but it never really gained popularity due to a major defect — it tended to pull itself apart.
In 1917, Gideon Sundback of The Universal Fastener Company patented the “Separate Fastener”, a closure made of two interlocking rows of metal teeth that were pulled into a single piece by a slider. The design was a hit, especially for boot manufacturers. The term “zipper” was first coined by the B.F. Goodrich Company in 1923 to describe the “zip” sound that was made when their new rubber boots called “galoshes” were fastened.
The first company to use zippers for clothing was Schott NYC, an outerwear company founded in 1913 by two brothers, Irving and Jack Schott. In 1928, they introduced the first leather motorcycle jacket with fully functioning zippers — the Perfecto. Named after Irving Schott’s favorite cigar, the Perfecto was designed especially for motorcycle riders. Made of cowhide leather for durability, it featured zippers for easy adjustability while riding, a belted waist for a secure fit, and an asymmetric front closure that was more comfortable for riders hunched on their bikes. It was durable, practical, and popular. And in 1928, it retailed for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor.
One of the earliest images of the Perfecto jacket. Image from here.
From Gangs to Couture
In the 1950s, the moto jacket’s popularity surged when Marlon Brando, as head of a motorcycle gang, wore the Schott NYC jacket in the film, The Wild One. At the time, schools in the US banned the jacket style as a symbol of gang culture, but it never lost its popularity.
Image from here.
Inspired by the youth-driven Beat movement of the 1950s, Yves Saint Laurent designed his version of the moto jacket in 1960 for the House of Dior. Crafted from black leather embossed with a crocodile pattern and trimmed in mink, the Chicago jacket was an elegant and luxurious interpretation of street style. Notably, it was the first time a fashion designer had openly been inspired by youth culture.
Image from here.
Expression of Individuality
What is so cool about the moto jacket is that it is a style that can be reimagined in many ways, especially for those of us who prefer to laze about in a cafe on weekends rather than riding a motorcycle. While purists may cringe, the moto jacket can be made in materials other than leather, such as brocade, denim, boiled wool, and even silk organza. It can have a handknit collar, a peplum, or decorated with fun trims such as ribbon, contrast piping, and lace. So many options!
Below are some of my original moto jacket designs. Check out my Design Gallery!
Boucle moto jacket with curved seams
Boiled wool moto jacket with a chunky handknit collar
Handknit cabled moto jacket in cotton/wool
Ruffle collar moto jacket in pink wool/cashmere and faux leather trim
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